Crew: Don & Jane Horton and Ron & Connie Laudenschlager
August 1, Marcy caught the 1600 hrs ferry to Rhodes and Don & Jane Horton arrived in time for dinner at the pricey but good Antiques Restaurant in the Netsel Marina. Don explained the bus ride was great until the outskirts of town when it stopped in traffic.
August 2, The crew arose bright and early, about 9:30 or so. We ate breakfast at 11:30. The rigors of the schedule dictated leaving the harbor by 1430. We praised the natural beauty as we headed off to Bodrum. The rock formations and color of the sea became ever more impressive as the whitecaps grew. With the wind on our nose (but of course) we clawed our way north with puffs of 40 knots adding to the pleasure. After a few hours of these conditions we spotted the harbor of Bozuk Buko. We also spied a single kayaker heading straight into the wind and making little forward progress. His paddling looked strong, but still we wondered about his motive for taking on this challenging sea. Choosing the second little dock to tie up was important because Sheila remembered how wonderful the food was there on the last stop. With much-ado-about-docking we were finally tied up using about every line and knot available to create the most interesting spider web. Or should we call it nautical macramé? One very long line went all the way to a large rock ashore. We laughed about dragging this somewhat flimsy dock behind us as the wind blew 40kn steadily! We dined at the single structure at this location. It was indeed a family affair. Three generations enjoying their international guests, regaling us with music, dance, and great food. Bobby joined in, sharing his bongo and tambourine talent. We danced ourselves back to Migration, where we pushed back the Bimini to uncover the amazing star-studded heavens. We gazed for hours for a perfect ending to the day.
August 3, Rather than continuing north to Bodrum (it was still blowing heavily, right on the nose), we decided to put up the jib and fly back to Marmaris. However, two hours into the trip the wind died, so we did a U-turn and headed for Bodrum. Again by 1500 hrs the wind began building to 35kn. The new game on aboard was "Beat 55+kn" (the ship’s Mediterranean record). We did clock 52kn, however. After enough pounding, we found Palamut Buku, a brand-new dock and two wonderful restaurants. (For those interested, the write-up in their Heikell’s Guide was outdated. There was more than enough room for the number of large yachts inside). It was dinner and bed for this band of merry pirates.
August 4, We arose early to beat the seas and make tracks for Bodrum, because Pam & Bobby had to make the 1500 hrs ferry. We passed rock formations that were very impressive; cave sightings; unmanned lookouts perched precariously at great heights; and a lighthouse with a large Turkish flag painted on the side of the accompanying structure. Upon entering the Bodrum harbor, we were surprised by the size of the town, which gently draped itself over the rolling hills. We lunched seaside, walked Pam & Bobby to the ferry, hugged everyone good-bye and then began our assault on the marketplace. Much tourist trade in leather, rugs, ceramics, jewelry, and spices were readily available. We cocktailed with a lovely American couple Bob & Sue Kendig, who have been sailing the world for 8 years. Once again super-sleuth Sheila walked us over hill and dale to a tucked-away restaurant that provided wonderful food and drink. We said good night to new friends and dinghied back to Migration. And then it happened. The cacophony of indescribable disco-tech no-Turkish beat! And lights! There were strobe, blinking, shooting and laser types lighting up the harbor.
We all recognized the fact that we had become the older generation as we sat in wonder as to how the younger set could hear or see anything with all of this sensory overload. After much debate we crossed our fingers and made a stab at sleep.
August 5, Another beautiful morning greeted us. After coffee and talk, the four of us headed ashore to the Internet cafe and took care of some business. We lunched at a Bodrumfast food spot having doner and salad and beer for all. Errands, shopping and buying diesel for Migration done, we put up BOTH SAILS and cruised to Orak Adase, about eight miles east of Bodrum. It is a small island with lovely little coves and very few boats. We tied to a rock and dropped the hook and then grabbed the snorkel gear. The water was crystal clear, the formations of rock wonderful. There were lots of silvery small fish. The water temperature was a perfect 76 degrees. Sheila made a tasty pasta dinner and then again the Bimini was pushed back. Four content sailors drifted from a star-gazing mode to a sleep zone.
August 6, We unhooked ourselves and started a ride back to Bodrum to pick up the next crew, Rohn & Connie Laudenschlager. That being accomplished, we lunched in the market square, bought more ceramics, and then marched toward the "Castle." After climbing steps that were built for seven-foot knights (must be all leg), we decided to change back at Migration and plan that evening’s attack. At 2200 hrs this posse stuffed with olives, almonds and drink descended on the staff at "The Secret Garden" to a meal that brought multiple accolades. The fact that our meal began with champagne on-the-house and ended with brandy on-the-house contributed not only to our gaiety, but also to that memory part of our brains. Here was lights out by 1:00am to a more gentle disco beat than two nights previous.
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August 7, It was an early start, 1100 hrs, for the skipper and crew as we pointed Migration east to a destination known as Akbuk. The wind was perfect as the sails filled and carried us gently along. About two hours into the trip, olfactory senses went into high gear. There was a definite smell of diesel coming from below. Mike and Don (A.K.A. Fred & Ricky) transitioned into nautical grease monkeys and immediately discovered the problem, a leak around a gasket in the fuel pump. NOT GOOD. Another U-turn was performed back to Bodrum. Along the way it was also discovered that an elbow in the hot water system had sprung a pin-hole leak, draining out all the fresh water. Now I don’t admit to being psychic, but it became very clear to me what was going on. Ever since the arrival of Rohn & Connie, abnormal events have been occurring at ludicrous speed. Engine trouble, water leakage, wine evaporation, overcooked meat and the arrival of white puffy clouds. This is not a good thing. The remaining four must come up with a plan.
August 7, 1500hrs
Our plan was the following: Call Gino Group and get Tuna over here fast! Repair all broken systems and spend the night at Bodrum Marina. Continue to act normal around Rohn & Connie. Avoid climbing around another castle with Sheila the Hun. Dine at La Jolla and befriend Sergar the owner. Sleep with one eye opened.
August 8, With all repairs made and full tanks of water, the inmates of Migration set sail again for Akbuk. Winds were cooperative carrying us east. The sails enjoyed being "stuffed" with Turkey breeze. Good conversation followed by tasty food and quiet reading led to afternoon. A local youth rowed out to us as we cased the waters and invited us to pick up a mooring. Could it be any easier? Swimming, showers and cocktails filled the hours before dinner. We observed that this one-taverna town offered many campsites and small boat activities. Bobbing in an inner tube seemed to be the favorite followed by walking your cow, pony, goat and dog along the beach. At 1700 hrs, we grabbed the dingy and headed for our evening meal. We were greeted by another youth on the beach who walked us up the hill and directly to a table on an open air patio overlooking the harbor. It was during this walk that Rohn straightened us out on the few important facts about his dining preferences. It boiled down to this: green vegetables are nice to look at, but it is the humble potato that makes a meal a feast. And meat is the only worthy companion to the spud, period. Now Sheila and I like to have a look-see at the starters when we enter a taverna. Our waiter joined us and described the choices-all vegetables! We mentioned Rohn’s eating habits and he gave a wicked little smile to us. Then Rohn approached the food case and we watched our waiter perform his magic. "What is this?" Rohn inquired as he pointed to a selection. "Fried potatoes," our cohort in crime said without missing a beat. "And this?" Rohn questioned again. "Stuffed potato," was the reply. Next, we heard about yogurt with potatoes, potato kabobs and eggplant that was really a variety of potatoes! We got him! But in the end, Rohn had the last laugh: two large plates of French fries and a waiter who would be a friend forever! Our meal ended with a birthday celebration for a 24-year-old relative of our waiters. We sang to her and then shared the birthday cake as we admired her baby daughter. Another wonderful night came to an end as we stargazed and heard Captain Mike say, "I’m gonna shoot that effing dog if he doesn’t stop barking!"
August 9, We set out early for our next harbor, a little spot a few miles west called Cokertme. It was another beauty and provided us with choices in the taverna category. We dropped our hook off the bow and tied our stern to some onshore rocks. Then is was time to explore both the town and the beer locations. That being accomplished, we headed back to the boat for a swim. Don and his lovely bride were in the water snorkeling, when all of a sudden we realized the boat was drifting back to the rocks. Captain Mike started the engine and prevented the tragedy from occurring. After a first attempt at relocation, it was off to the town’s dock and Mediterranean Mooring. All the locals took part in the process including a golden retriever, an Irish setter, and a cocker spaniel, all working doggedly without a paw-se to help us. Dinner that evening was wonderful and Rohn enjoyed meat balls with French fries. But of course.
August 10, With no rats sighted on board (someone spread the rumor about the rope walking passarele-crossing rodents), we left our friends and dogs and continued west. We need to be back to Bodrum as this charming scribe and her husband have to leave this evening to start the journey back to Connecticut. On a personal note, we continue to pinch ourselves as we realize how fortunate we are to have such an experience. Not only are we in glorious blue waters and surrounded by harbors of great beauty, but we are with dear friends. Sheila and Mike, thank you for welcoming us into your dream. Memory making was never so much fun! And Rhon and Connie, the pleasure was all ours!
P.S. Every time I see a potato I will think of the summer of ’02 and you!