Crew: Dawn Easley, Liz Hoffman and Joan Arnold.
July 15, Dawn, Liz and Joni arrived by high-speed ferry at 7:00pm. Over drinks it was decided that Joni will be scribe to keep the log. So here is the first entry. I had to spend several moments deciding what person to write this log in-and after some due consideration I’ve decided to attempt the royal we, although sometimes I may have to put comments in the first person as I didn’t complete kindergarten where one should learn how to share.
July 16, Warm day with light variable breezes. Woke up at 11:30 to fresh ground coffee, yogurt and fruit. Lazy read, relax day. Anthony Stanwix owned the boat "Anatina" next to us. He has been a charter captain of his boat in Greece for 30 years so his knowledge base was deep. His mobile number is 030 945985203. We had many friendly conversations, over a couple cans of beer during our stay in Poros between July 10 and the 17th. He offered a number of friendly tips, such as touring Monemvassia and contacting the refrigeration person there to install the new compressor Joni lugged all the way from America. Dinner at Karavolos Taverna (tel.: 098-26.158) with Anthony, who convinces all to try the snails for which the taverna is noted (actually periwinkles). Karavolos is one of the best in Poros.
July 17, We got an early start down the Peloponnese to Leonido, passing Hydra and Spetses on our way. The quay had concrete reinforcement down about three or four feet; however, our rudder drew almost six feet. After securing the boat we realized our gangplank was not long enough. Fortunately the rudder on the boat next to us had a shallower draught and a longer gangplank. We made a neighborly exchange for the night. Then we took the much-desired swim at the lovely adjacent beach. After the obligatory check in with the Port Police, we dinned at Marguerite & Michele Taverna. Star treatment, as we are friends of Anthony.
July 18? At 3:30am the wind picked up blowing the boat closer to the concrete. With the sound of rudder scraping, Mike sprung from bed to take up on the slack in the anchor chain. The windlass grinding noise could awaken the dead to those in the two forward cabins. On the way to Monemvassia we stopped for a swim off Ak Kremmini. As we came around point we saw this magnificent old town built into the headland, actually an island connected to the mainland with a causeway. Houses, churches, wall coming down the West Side. Well worth the visit. The marina is on the south side of the breakwater/causeway. It is a new beginning of a large expansion project. We called "To Kanoni" taverna (tel.: 0732 61387), recommended by Anthony in Poros, to make a reservation for dinner and asked them to locate and arrange for the local refrigeration specialist who spoke French or Greek (no English). Unfortunately the bus for Kastro (old town) was not running as scheduled, so we walked--or should I say climbed--there by foot. We had better luck with the taxi (tel.: 0732 61274). This beautiful town was full of history from Cretan (Minoan) to Byzantine and Venetian.
July 19 This day was dedicated to getting the refrigeration to work.
July 20 We take off at 6:30am for the long leg to Milos. Along the way, Mike checked the refrigeration to find the cold plate did not get cold, but it got hot. He decided this was enough and deferred the refrigeration job to Marmarus, Turkey. We observed a Greek military boat zigzagging erratically across the horizon, and then it turned in our direction. Mike was standing at the head stay. The four girls were in the cockpit. At about 300 feet they stopped and pulled out their binoculars. I thought they were going to board us. I broke the tension and waved. They responded by turning around and gunning it. At Milos we Med. moored next to a French boat that warned us to keep distance from the quay, because the ferries and military boats arrive throwing great wakes. Neither they nor the man sitting on his motorbike taking in the sights offered any help catching our lines. So Liz made a grand leap, landed on her side, rolled to a stop and sprung to her feet and tied us up. 10 points for bravery and enthusiasm, 3 for grace. Thus her nickname "Leaping Liz." (We are not sure husband Ernie will let her come sailing again when he sees the battle scars!)
July 21 Early dawn cracked the whip to be sure we made the early bus to the Plaka and a climb to the ancient Kastro and its spectacular view. Then the ruins where the Venus di Milo was found and the Catacombs, where they used to bury their dead. I decided to stop an a café to rest and let my hip heal while the others adventured off and about. When they returned, we enjoyed ice-cold mugs of draught beer, sodas and nibblies. We returned to the boat to depart at 1:00pm for Folegandros, only to find our anchor was hooked to another anchor. Fortunately, after a few attempts it broke loose. We passed Kimolos and into Folegandros harbor. The Port Police ejected a German boat was tied broadside to the quay and taking more than his share of the space. Now two others and us could Med. moor. Again "Leaping Liz" came to the rescue with her giant leap and roll trick. At 8:20pm we took the local bus to the Chora. A wonderful village on the cliff overlooking the sea. The town was alive with tourists dining at the open air Tavernas and shopping the stores surrounding the square. (After bandaging the now bruised and battled Liz, we retired.)
July 22 At 8:30am we departed for the marina on the southern tip of Santorini. On arrival at the marina, Al Bissex hailed us to pull in to the space next to his boat. He caught our lines and tied us up properly, to Leaping Liz’s great relief. Al & Nina Bissex own the "Kikatu."
July 23 We rented a car, toured the island, had a sunset dinner in Oea, and were now much too busy to keep a log.
After the Grinnell girls depart, Joni left for a non-mobile room in Kamari Beach to toast in the sun with the other tourists where the Grinnells joined her for dinner.
July 24, we met another English couple: Bill & Jane Curtis whose catamaran, "Doublit," was tied at the end of the marina. They strongly encouraged us to monitor, on the SSB, for the weather on the daily Net on 4417 or 4033.