
Crew: Gerry Connors, Rich Wuerth, Christina Grinnell and Young Kim
July 2, Sheila and Rich did better battling with customs than Mike and Costas Douzinas did last year. Sheila had befriended some locals last year who had some inside connections. We also think it paid not to be able to speak Greek and perhaps some gentle female persuasion helped. 9:00pm, Christina and Young arrived just in time to take the 10-minute ferry ride to Preveza to meet Stefan for a lovely grilled fish dinner.
July 3, From Preveza to the island of Lefkas we passed the drawbridge that replaced the screw-turn drawbridge from the 15th century. Beautiful dark blue waters. Arrived in the town of Lefkada to have a great lunch, grocery-shop and pick up some boat parts. Then to nearby Nidri. There we hoisted Young, on the bosun’s chair, to the top of the mast to lubricate the wind vane. We found out later he was wearing his slippery swim trunks and was feeling very insecure 70’ up from the water. Christina pointed out this was his first time up a mast when she saw his legs trembling. But he did get a great picture from his vantage point looking down at the deck.
July 4, Christina and Young went for a walk ashore while the others put on the Genoa and roller furling lines, etc. Next stop was Fiscardo, Kefalonia. We tried sailing, but not enough steady wind. We found an out of the way taverna called "Panormos" (tel.: 0674-41203) on a bluff overlooking the Med. toward the most magnificent rising full moon. We picked out our fish, customary to Greece, and all was delicious. Strolling back to the boat, we stopped and befriended some friendly fellow cruisers from Northern Ireland. After ice cream, we went straight to bed, forgetting we had sparklers to celebrate the 4th.
July 5, After attempting to sail, we powered to where we anchored off a beach between Sami and Efimia, Kefalonia. We found a lovely taverna on the water that had a nice little duck pond next to it. Lunch was delicious: rabbit, meat pies, vegetables… Walked to the Melissani Caves. As we descended to the underground beautiful blue lake it became noticeably cooler, 65 degrees F. As the guide took us around in his row boat, he explained the ceiling had fallen in 5000 years ago, so we could see sky. Back to the boat and on to Efimia for the night.
July 6, Early we heard the engine kick over and the anchor being lifted while most of us were still in bed. Young was entrusted with the helm, even though he was afraid he might hit a rock. In this eight-hour journey we passed Ithaca to port heading for the island of Trizonia in the Gulf of Corinth. The scenery was beginning to change. The mountains tapered off towards the beach. Lots more green on the mountains, more flat land and more populated.
Finally we had enough wind to sail into Trizonia. We tied broadside to the quay, right next to a small farm with a duck family, hens, roosters, and a donkey. Dinner at the square was very nice. We strolled through town and had a nightcap at a small beach taverna.
July 7, Again we started early enough to get to Galaxidi and allow enough time for Christina and Young to make it to Delphi. The rest of the crew relaxed and did chores. Dinner at our favorite local backstreet taverna was great. Later we listened to the sounds a local festival as we tried to fall asleep.

July 8, Another hazy day. Hot early. Five-hour trip to the town of Corinth just south of the canal. Lunch on the boat: hot dogs, cheese, bread, mom’s eggplant dip and a special dessert. A local sweet pound cake soaked with honey wrapped in filo. Yum. Sheila, Mike, Young and Christina went to the ruins of Ancient Corinth where they had a natural spring feed that led to their baths and a sophisticated water system. We filled our water bottles for free. Rich and Jerry stayed in town and walked around. After a nice dip at the beach we had an excellent dinner at a very reasonable price. Great grilled octopus, no taverna butt! Comfy cotton sling chairs. A plate piled high with watermelon arrived (the Taverna’s treat) to top off the evening.
July 9, Cooler day. Walked into town to buy broom handles and olive oil before heading out. Local olive oil is good, but the threads of the broom handles do not fit the heads. The new Migration rug that now resides in the main salon at the foot of the companionway stairs was handmade by Christina as Mike’s Christmas present. It looks great, but it needs to be shaken every day or two. Rough waters before the canal, 30 minutes’ journey through, then put up the jib and mainsail. We actually made 8 knots for a while before it died. In Poros we did some grocery shopping, then water taxi to Galatas (across the harbor) to dinner at Elena’s taverna.
July 10, Took the Flying Dolphin high-speed ferry to Hydra (pronounced Idra or Eedra) where there are no buses, cars, or bikes--only donkeys for transportation. Very hot day! Walked around the hillside through the houses--very pretty island. Took a tour around the marine museum. Good lunch. Back to Poros to dinner at the clock tower restaurant--delicious shrimp stefado--took picture for Gerry and Rich’s last dinner.
July 11, Saw Jerry off at 7:30am ferry to Athens. A little time at the Internet café and shopping then lunch at the best taverna that is only open for lunch. We ate in a windy alley. Yum! Rich left on the ferry and the rest returned for a siesta, relaxing and afternoon chores. Mike made another of his regular trips to see Spiros at the local marine hardware store Pavlou Brothers, Poros, Trizinias (tel.: 0298 25173). Dinner was at the taverna right next to the stern of Migration.
July 12, Water taxi across to Galatas where we rented a couple of 2-person motorbikes from Mano. He told us how to go through Trizina to Devil’s Gorge. Beautiful gorge with pools, where water dripped and ferns and moss grew. Saw frogs, crabs, and blue and green dragonflies. Enjoyed a picnic with cheese and bread and homemade lemonade that Mike created from our water and lemons he picked along the hike. Stopped at a mountain village taverna for beer and water. Then down the road to a sheltered bay where we swam and collected shells. We returned the bikes after a tour of the coastline and back to the boat for a siesta. Dinner at Douzinas’ favorite restaurant Karavolos. Delicious! Ice cream at Sheila and Mike-s favorite ice cream place--everyone got mango. Young and Christina slept on deck for their last night.
July 13, Sheila and Christina picked up some sweets at the bakery for breakfast. We saw Christina and Young off at the ferry.