Crew: George, Inga, Natalya, & George Jr Castrissiades; Dave & Linda Nelson.
July 5, after coordinating with Mike’s great Greek cell phone we knew exactly how to find the Migration. We arrived late but Mike had left the masthead light on. It was like the Star of Bethlehem for fellow members of the Community Reformed Church in Manhasset. The stars were out. Migration was surrounded by colorful Greek fishing boats. We dined at the one and only taverna at the top of the cliff accessible by a steep stair climb. A delicious dinner and to bed.
July 6, we took the bus to Thira, which became a tour of Santorini. We pretended to shop as we ducked in and out of air conditioned shops. The men bought very light cotton shirts. After lunch we caught a 5:00pm bus back and beelined to the black sanded beach to cool down before dinner at the cliffside taverna.
July 7, early, the kids carried blocks of ice to the boat. We departed for Ios in strong wind and heavy seas. We were hoping to stop at the Hot Springs in the caldera of Thira, but given the weather conditions, we passed. Mike called on VHS to any Captain for a weather report. The response was about 40 knots wind, the level we were enduring. We finally made it into Ios, but the anchor chain fouled as we attempted the Med. mooring. We idled and hung in the middle of the harbor unraveling the knots of chain. Several times a young crew of a Danish boat offered their assistance. Huge ferries came and went, expelling more backpackers to the lure of sun, sex and the all night discos. The "music" never stopped. We were on the main promenade right in front of the "Frog Club."
July 8, we departed heading south in perfect sailing weather. Suddenly we were treated to the sight of two dolphins playing with our bow wake for about ten minutes. Out popped the cameras to capture this memorable event. We stopped for a swim/snorkel/sun in Manganari, one of the most beautiful, white sanded blue water beaches in Greece. After hauling anchor we sailed to Iraklia. This town had no other yachts, just a picturesque quay with little colorful Greek fishing boats. Walking into the town of Agios Georgios at sunset we admired the cacti, flowering bushes, geraniums, spotting a few skinny cats and two churches overlooking the bay. We found a cute little family-run taverna overlooking the bay and Migration. We dined on grilled octopus with ouzo, giant beans, soft cheese, and fresh bread and Santorini wine.
July 9, we powered to Poros in water that looked like "ladi," (Greek for oil), with George at the wheel. We anchored near the nice white beach side of the harbor, where browned topless beauties were, and went for a swim. Mike powered the dinghy to pick up the Nelsons. Later Mike & Sheila shopped for essentials, Dave & Linda went sightseeing, and the Castrissiades took the bus to Naoussa. The hills were ablaze with a forest fire and smoke. This had been a very dry year. Seaplanes that looked like the old Pan Am flying boats scooped up salt water for fire control. Later we all met up at Mike & Sheila’s favorite taverna. We were greeted like long-lost friends. I marveled over dishes like octopus in tomato sauce, squid in spinach, rabbit stew with whole onions, large mushroom caps, eggplants with tomatoes, giant beans, grilled octopus, stuffed zucchini, fried squid (calamari), tzidziki, toasted bread with garlic, Greek salad, biram, imam for appetizers. We waddled back to the dinghy to return to the boat.
July 10, after Sheila’s famous bread pudding we shoved off for Mykonos. Dave tried to fish, but no luck. Mike called ahead to his friend Matthew, who was able to move a few boats around in the new marina, so we had a nice alongside berth. The landing was a bit hard due to heavy winds from abeam, but we made it. Another large Danish sailing yacht came alongside and asked if they could tie alongside. Feeling guilty, since we were not Med. Moored, we said yes. Sheila, realizing they were just past college age, stated we had some college kids on board. They said, "We know." Suddenly we recognized they were on the boat from Ios that persistently offered us help. Natalya seemed to be of interest. Dave and Linda rushed off to rediscover their "honeymoon in Mykonos." We all met for dinner, etc.
July 11, Dave & Linda, in the rented car, went to continue to re-live their honeymoon. Natalya took off with the Danish crew. After a day of touring it was time to relax. We were entertained by one of the Danes who played a bagpipe. When we questioned him about his British-sounding accent, he answered he had done his semester abroad in Scotland and learned to play bagpipes and sing the songs. We met Matthew’s uncle Niko and Vasili, a friend. They drove Mike & Sheila to beautiful highlights of the island. Most of us went to "Matthew’s" (different Matthew) restaurant by the bus stop. Natalya and Georgie stayed on board the Danish boat and made friends.
July 12, we powered in calm seas to Siros to connect Inga, Natalya and Georgie with the ferry to Athens. David tried his hand at local fishing again to no avail. I don’t think the fish went for the Genoa salami. Destination: Oros Kastri, on the island of Kea where George’s great grandfather had been a Greek Orthodox priest in the monastery overlooking the bay. We were touched by the sight of this beautiful, tranquil bay. The very clear water was the warmest we had seen at 79 degrees. We surprised some nude swimming Italian hikers, who came here the hard way. We all had to get into this clear water. Over all the experience was close to spiritual. George started growing a beard and almost seemed to be having a religious experience for the rest of the cruise. That night, in Pisses, George ordered in Greek at a local taverna on the beach. Everything was local and homemade. Mussels saganaki in red sauce, shrimp saganaki, wine, octopus, calamari. Afterwards, apple pie a la mode with chocolate for David, and cherries and mastica. Invigorated, David rowed us back for a nightcap of ouzo.
July 13, the anchor raising was difficult. Underway in a brisk breeze, George, who worked very hard in the anchor chain locker, developed a new morning libation. It was a blend of orange juice and ouzo. Mike named it Screwzo. Linda wanted to patent it. In picturesque Poros, George caught the ferry to Athens and we took the water taxi to Mike and Sheila’s favorite taverna in Galatas. Helena, the owner, announced the specials and we feasted. David loved the scordolia (garlic in potato base). The Greeks have the best ice cream made with real cream and rich flavors. Umm.
July 14, Linda and Dave took the high speed ferry to historic Hydra. Cars had not replaced the donkeys. Mike and Sheila did chores. Later we rented a car and drove the winding, mountainous roads to Epidavros. Linda was conspicuously quiet. Sheila had pointed out the little shrines along side the dangerous parts of the road that represented somebody’s demise. Linda was relieved to arrive, to enjoy touring and some fascinating Greek history. After safely arriving back at Poros we went out to Dimitri’s Butcher Shop and Taverna with Mike and Sheila’s 80-year-old friend Elias. On the way to the taverna Elias walked the narrow marble back alleys barefooted. Mike joined him, removing his sandals. Much of the meal conversation was Elias giving his very interesting rendition of Greek history and us eagerly asking him questions. After words Elias treated us to his favorite Greek ice cream place. What a wonderful day.
July 15 to 17, we toured, did chores and made our way to the airport and New York.