Crew: Hy & Verna Livingston and Ed & Sally Gonzalez
June 16, the Livingsons arrive at the dock a few hundred feet from Migration. Mike took the dinghy to them. While orchestrating their embarkation the cell phone rang. It was the Gonzalezes asking how to find us. Mike asked Ed to give the phone to his driver and quickly handed his to Hy’s driver. A minute or so later the Gonzalezes show up. Ed was very impressed how quickly Mike had picked up fluent Greek. After everyone settled in we went ashore for dinner. The restaurant competition was keen. We found a wonderful fish taverna willing to throw in free wine. Boy, were they in trouble! After a very fulfilling meal we somehow we made it back dry.
June 17, we began the day with Sheila’s famous fresh fruit and 10% butterfat Greek yogurt and cereal and Mike’s famous freshly ground and brewed coffee. The crew went ashore to tour and shop, while Mike and Sheila did chores. At lunch Hy befriended the Greek waiter from Chicago.
June 18, the weather was beautiful and winds light on the way to Katakolon. We called the marina the "white elephant." It was built to handle all the tourists who, during the Olympics, will be visiting Olympia (the site of the original Olympics). It can handle hundreds of sizeable yachts and a parking lot for a thousand cars. We experienced a handful of yachts with a bunch of small Greek fishing boats. Later we enjoyed fresh fish Mike & Sheila had acquired from the local fisherman in Zakinthos. Great vittles.
June 19, on the way to the bus stop to Olympia we found a great bakery for breakfast. The bus stop was on the corner at 17 Praxiteles Street, Ancient Olympia where we found "Jewelry by NICHOLAS Classics." (011-30-624022472, nicgeorg@hol.gr) Nicholas invited Sheila to come in and see his fine jewelry. Sheila had a very bad experience being cheated by George at Gold Corner in the Plaka, Athens the prior year. She wanted nothing to do with any jewelry salespeople. He patiently listened to Sheila’s complaint. Then he picked up the phone and began a long process by calling the Gold Corner. With no small effort he eventually, over the next several weeks, was able to obtain a fair cash settlement for her. Nicholas is an exceptional human being. We look forward to many years of shopping in his store.
Once we arrived at Olympus, we walked the main road (mainly for tour buses and really quite long for walkers) to the site of the original Olympics and the museum. Very interesting. Afterwards we were hot, hungry and our feet hurt. We found a short cut directly toward town. Down a steep path, across a creek and halfway up the hill on the right was a delightful taverna where we dined in a covered open-air area, simultaneously feeling refreshed by the lovely breeze.
June 20, a 47-mile downhill ride to Pylos. We found a great spot alongside the wall. After a great lunch, shop, and nap we strolled the harbor. I had consistently seen "swordfish" on the menu throughout Greece but rarely ordered it because we thought it was imported frozen like so many other fish. We were surprised to see the large fishing boat near us was lifting about a dozen iced down fresh swordfish out of their hold. Some weighted 300+ pounds and some were less than 100. Unfortunately we could not find a taverna with a sign saying "fresh swordfish today." They were probably shipped to Athens and elsewhere. We befriended an Italian gentleman who was single-handing the Mediterranean and invited him for cocktails. When he arrived, after apologizing for his poor command of the English language, we had a very stimulating conversation. Our Italian, of course, was not even worth apologizing for. His vision of America was eye-opening to us all.
June 21, While we were taking on water in the old harbor, Verna and Sally shopped. They returned with a glorious array of tastefully prepared sandwiches for the trip. When everyone was ready, Mike called the order to cast off. He put Migration into gear and began to accelerate. The boat did not move forward. It did however side slip in the direction of the shallows of the old harbor. Rather than trying to explain the situation and bark orders, he sprung into action, running forward and dropping the main anchor. Upon inspection, it was determined the transmission cable had broken. However we could shift manually. Ed became the "shifter," while Sally became the "communicator in the companionway" between the shifter and the Captain. After passing the picturesque Moorish castle, "Methoni," guarding the entrance of the bay, we safely made it to Kalamata at about 1430 hours. We were surprised to find the Marina was one of the most modern of Greece. There were fixed moorings with functional water and electric hookup, a dock master to catch our lines, and a laundry. We attempted to land in a strong cross wind. We had difficulty, since we have no bow thruster. Thankfully the Norwegian owner of the "No Rehearsal," moored nearby, quickly recognized our need for help and came to the rescue. Driving his hard-bottomed inflatable like a tug boat on our bow we were able to slip right in. Later we met Tony, the Captain of "No Rehearsal," who shared much of his experience. He highly recommended wintering at the Marmaris Yacht Marina over Netsel, because of its significantly lower cost without losing the services of Gino Group. After washing down the boat and chores, we had dinner at one of the lovely convenient tavernas next to the Marina.
June 22, Gonzalezes & Livingstons took off to Mystra and other sights for the day, in a rented car, while Mike and Sheila did chores. That evening the six of us managed to find a taverna in town, which was highly recommended by a British couple in the marina. This was our last supper together, for it was time for the Gs & Ls to depart. The taverna was tucked into a nice open space, with lots of pine trees, not far from the Post Office. The name is Spanomichou (phone:83210). We found this one of the very best "Greek kitchens." We ate ourselves silly, enjoyed their very nice house wine. All for about $30US including tax and tip. Who says the Euro has made Greece too expensive?
