Crew: Mark & Karen Ezratty and Don & Jane Horton
September 11, Sheila, crying hysterically, greeted the above crew arriving by ferry. Her eyes glistening, she announced that the World Trade Center had collapsed. How many had died? How did it happen? Why did it happen? This is beyond all imagination. Only questions. No answers. The local Harbor Police, realizing Migration had the tallest mast in the harbor and also proudly displayed an American Ensign suggested, as a precaution, we take in the ensign. The little island of Kea was probably more safe than most other places but we complied with their request. Dinner and welcoming were subdued. This is going to take a while to absorb. This is a life-marker.
September 12, we sailed for the little harbor of Hydra. It was full. We began a Mediterranean Mooring second tier. Our stern lines were tied to the bows of a Swedish boat and a German boat. After dinner all but Mike walked up to the hilltop overlooking the harbor. Mike preferred an after-dinner drink (ouzo) at the taverna next to Migration. The 5 return to find Mike on the deck of the Swedish boat with 6 Swedish girls, all singing "Dance Queen" with great enthusiasm into microphones of winch handles or empty vodka bottles, pretending not to hear us. The man was clearly enjoying the company of the young Swedes in their best evening wear. An invitation was extended, introductions made and the volume was turned up. The voices become merged, but one stands alone, a lovely 20-something, a lone soprano, tinged with Swedish, beckons in the moony night, "Oh Mike, Mike, are you having a good time? Are you sure? Guaranteed?" Again and again she needs to be reassured that her swarthy captain, her favorite seaman, her supreme navalness is A-OK. But hers is not without competition as another seafaring captain, we will call him Manos (some names have been changed, altered or forgotten due to alcoholic consumption or senility), tells another Swedish beauty that she is "the best boat neighbor a man could ever have." We one by one began to peel off to crash. As we close our eyes to the sounds of Hydra, the Swedes go off to the disco, Manos to bed, and a Dutch man pees off the bow.
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September 13, after climbing to the top again for the view we sailed to Poros. We found an irresistible little cove on the way and stopped for a dip. Since we had been to Poros many times before, we called Ilias (a friend who was introduced to by Costas Douzinas) who joined us for dinner.
September 14, after some morning shopping we went to the local favorite lunch place to savor papasoukis, octopus and macaroni, Greek salad and more beers. In the afternoon we sailed to the Corinth Canal, where we anchored and dined on the boat.
September 15, due to a miscommunication we had to wait 4 hours before we could go through the canal. Traffic is one way with many huge ships guided by pilots and pilot boats. It was a struggle to Galaxedi in 4’ seas and puffs to 38k winds on the nose. At one point Mike said, "Send up a distress flag." Mark retorted, "Which one?" Mike said, "The #2 flag. There is some serious gut-wrenching weather going on here." Everyone had a laugh.
September 17, continuing west in the Gulf of Corinth we come upon a jewel, new for Sheila & Mike, called Nafpaktos. From a distance the castle and its walls on the hill overlooking the town were conspicuous. A special touch is the small harbor surrounded by a medieval wall, mostly full of small local fishing boats. The gang sans Mike took off on foot to scale the hill. Mark led the crew to a wonderful taverna on the promenade surrounding the harbor, where we perfected the art of Ilias imitations. With every question came a pause and then an Ilias answer: "yes" or "no." We laughed every time it was performed. It will be a "keeper" every time this crew gets together. Tomorrow morning Karen & Mark headed back up to Krakow, Poland. Who puts together a Poland/Greece excursion anyway?
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September 18, this is a long 65-mile day to the Ionian island of Ithaka. The scenery became greener and there were clearly many more sailboats as we went further west. Again the beauty of this tiny harbor of Frikes provided us the opportunity to say, "I could live here." I think it is the uniqueness and beauty of each harbor that continues to amaze us. We tied up to a new quay built by an Italian construction company. It was fantastic in every way until we realized offshore ferry swells rolled into the harbor rolling the boat wildly. I thought the bumpers would wear out in less than an hour. We reset the anchor so the bow pointed directly into the waves, as opposed to the normal perpendicular Mediterranean Mooring.
September 19, we sailed to Fiskardho, Cephalonia for lunch. Cute town with 19th century houses and pine groves that escaped damage in the 1953 earthquake that devastated much of the Ionian. After lunch and a few beers we tried to leave quietly; however, our anchor seemed to pick up a few friends. We also seemed to be in the way as a large ferry was maneuvering about and other sailboats were trying to land. Two Englishmen in a dinghy and Migration provided 15 minutes of free entertainment. Check please. Levkas was just a short ride way. We arrived in quiet Ormos Vlikho after passing Nidri, a scene of water-sports, many yachts, and a heavily wood shoreline. Micky of Micky & Nicky Sailmakers came aboard to talk to Captain Sheila about winter maintenance on the dodger, new bumper covers, etc. Micky had suggested Dimitrius Taverna for dinner. We followed his guidance for another wonderful evening. Later that evening or early into the morning we were serenaded by the over-ambitious rosters of Lefkas.
September 20, the final leg of the journey of the summer of 2001 began with yet another beautiful morning. We arrived in Lefkas city, toured, shopped, strolled the Promenade and found "Romantica" for lunch. We dined under a ceiling of leaves and vines surrounded by bougainvillea and geraniums. The Greeks have a talent for decorating with the native flora that goes above and beyond. Back on the boat at 2:52 to catch the opening of the 3:00 canal swing bridge. Did we make it? But of course--with laughter and high fives! A quick sail to Preveza Marine in Aktion, Greece. Here is where we met the challenge of the day. Make a landing into the slip where the travel lift will haul us out the next morning. What makes this landing particularly fun is the un-bumpered concrete slip and the cross current swiftly running by. On the 3rd attempt (Mike graciously called the 1st two attempts practice) we succeeded at getting the boat in place without sustaining any new decorations on the hull. I became an expert at running from port to starboard with a mother-bumper in my hands fending off all evil. Cool. After resting from this procedure and again congratulating ourselves on a job well done, and probably still on an emotional high, we had a water fight rather than Mike’s preference--cleaning the boat. No way, we needed to have fun. We decided to clean ourselves up and catch the ferry to Preveza City for the final meal together. A wonderful way to end a most special time.
September 21, promptly at 9:00am we could hear the engine of the travel lift coming. Soon the Migration became a landlubber in the back row of the yard, losing its prestigious position near the office and the guard. This is the year we will have the topsides shaved off and new gel coat applied. The rear of the yard had the least dust from traffic. Decommissioning chores began. While decommissioning, we met Fred & Mary van der Wal (fred_mary81@hotmail.com) in the Preveza Marine shipyard. Fred suggested we could get the best weather fax broadcast from Hamburg. All I needed was to download the software from the Internet and an adapter to connect the SSB and laptop. Fred explained the adapter was simple and he would make me one. Unfortunately we will not see them in the spring. In April they will be sail to the canals of France and up to their home country, Holland. They have bought a small house and intend to sell the boat, "Blue Elliot". After many years of cruising, their enthusiasm for it has diminished. Bon voyage.