Crew: Steve & Ilene Silberstein, Milt & Caroline Ciplet
JFK overnight to Prague, 3 hours in Prague, bought Metaxas cheap for Mike, onward to Split.
July 8.
Arrived SPU airport, met at airport with friendly faces of Caroline Ciplet and Sheila. Walked out to the road for the bus to Kastel Novi (on the main road to between Trogir and Split) where a bus was practically waiting for us. A short ride and walk through town to the harbor where Mike, Milt, Andrew, Colin, Young, Mario and Christina had cold beers already waiting. Great pizza and salad then off to Migration with baggage. While under power on the way to Split a local weekend boater plays chicken with us. Mario left for ferry to Italy. Threatening rain most of the afternoon finally hit the mountains over Split and reversed, creating downpour and huge wind squall. A nearby gullet and Migration rapidly swing towards each other. Day saved by Sheila and Colin while Mike is safe onshore using Internet. Captain of gullet, Lorenzo, joins us for a thank you drink and suggests some interesting ports. Kanoba Hvratski for dinner with great gnocchi and wine, watching some of the Germany-Portugal playoff. Andrew and Colin gave up berths for Silbersteins but didn't need a bunk as they were out to 4am. It is great to be young.
July 9 - Sunday.
Awake to Mike holding pieces of LPG distribution system. Replumbing needed before stove can be lit for coffee. We are on manual gas turn-on until next crew arrive with replacement solenoid valve. Head into town of Split to see "City Museum," Cathedral (Kaderal) and fruit market. Huge history - everyone invaded at some point. Motored back Kastel Sucurac. In the afternoon took a bus to Trogir - barely touched medieval town on a small island. Many tourists but fascinating - great ice cream. Took the bus back to Kasteli and searched for place to watch World Cup finals. Found waterfront had a big projection screen set up and the local tavern serving outdoors. Proprietor ordered takeout pizza for us. Crowd sided with Italy and were happy with result.
July 10 - Monday. Christina and Young leave at 4:40 am to take bus to airport. Colin and Andrew follow and 10 am. Sheila, Milt and Ilene walk a mile to Getro (big Croatian Costco-like store) to stock up but find no beef sausage. Pull up anchor and head northwest up coast past Sibenic, into Krka River and anchor at Rasline. Steve had the helm for much of trip and we enjoyed some good winds. Mike took helm at the Krka River as much excitement was to be had with low bridge, low power wires and bungy jumpers going off of the bridge. Rasline is a small, 400 person suburb of Sibenic with a great restaurant (and only one restaurant) that served amazing fresh fish!
July 11 - Tuesday. Sailed up the Krka river gorge to Skradin, jumping off point for tours of the Krka National Park. Took ferry up river (for free) to entry of Park, then hiked up past amazing waterfalls. Tried to get further tours upriver but most were booked and instead talked to Park guide who reminisced about when you could jump off of the falls, claiming that one day in 1998 he did it 100 times and hundreds of tourists took his picture. Ate at "buffet" in park, had amazing fresh grilled trout and ice cold draught beer for 50 Kuna (9 dollars) each - not a Disney concession! Went for a swim in the lower falls and returned to Skradin for a simple pizza dinner, although we couldn't avoid corn in the pizza.
July 12 - Wednesday.
While Mike and Milt foraged for Internet connectivity and food shopping, mates on board took advantage of the fresh waters of the Krka to swab the decks and soak the salt out of the lines, followed by a relaxing swim in the river. Mike and Milt returned from battle duty. They had found Wifi at a local restaurant. We headed back down the river and onward to Kakan Island. Eventually where we tied onto a good mooring. Sheila, Milt and Steve dinghied in to the little restaurant to pre-order the traditional lamb peka dish. R&R on the boat including killer Scrabble. Ready to go ashore promptly at 8:30, only to discover dinghy was missing. Mad dash downwind search worst case adrift, all hands on deck with glasses searching sea and shore. Diminishing light forces return and hope that marina folks picked up the dinghy. On return met by marina kids in boat, worried about us skipping out on peka and mooring fee. "Dinghy" not easily translated, but Yamaha (the outboard) is and smiles all around. Re-moor, dinghy delivered, great peka eaten and owner Zoran practices English with us. Milt who had loosly retied the dinghy for his swim earlier was so relieved he expressed his sincere appreciation to the marina kids with a stack of Kuna. Great American-Croatian brotherhood created.
July 13 - Thursday.
Pulled dinghy on deck to clean and add "T/T Migration" so ownership is clear in case dinghy decides to leave again. Left Kakan Island and motored/motor sailed northwest, searching for a lunch place suggested by Lorenzo on Kornat Island. We couldn't find the Kanoba so we anchored in a small harbor at Kravljacica on the island and had a great boat feast mid-afternoon. Onward, did some major island threading to Luca Zut where we anchored.
July 14 -Friday. Mike gets competitive as we sail up Pasmanski Kanal to Zadar and puts up main and jib, leaving all other boats in our wake. Much excitement as we dock in Zadar. Mike goes on search mission for Internet and walks the town to no avail. Sheila orders peka (again) and the Hortons arrive early at 3:45 pm.
July 15 - Saturday. Change of crew day - much activity.