Crew: Leigh & Dotty Ford and Richard & Sally Berjian
Wednesday, July 11 We arrived at the Split airport early afternoon and took a 10 minute taxi ride to Marina Kastella in Gomilica where we were welcomed by Mike and Sheila aboard the Migration. Leigh had hauled the computer that Mike had ordered from the States and was extremely thrilled to have since he had dropped his into the water a month earlier. We received thorough instructions from Sheila on items we should be aware of on a sailboat, such as flushing the head (toilet), conserving water when showering, brushing teeth and washing dishes. (Amazingly, we were so diligent in doing this that we had plenty of water left by time we got into Zadar.). We moved the boat to Sucurac and anchored it off shore. Getting into the dinghy the first time was a bit cumbersome for some of us (especially Sally) but we managed fine and felt that we had taken our first steps in being true sailors. Took a bus to Trogir and walked around the charming village busy with tourists. Looked at shops, ending up eating grilled squid and Swiss chard with tomato and cucumber salad at a quaint outdoor restaurant. Took the bus back to the dinghy and slept overnight on the boat.
Thursday, July 12 Arose to a beautiful morning and had breakfast on deck. We were treated to yogurt, fruit and cereal along with Mike's full flavored coffee. We sailed to Split harbor, anchored and boarded the dinghy once more (this time we managed without falling) and lunched at the Hvarian Restaurant. We toured the city known for its ancient medieval buildings and Diocletian's Palace built in the 300s by the Roman Emperor. Mike headed for the Internet shop to rebuild his files on the new computer while Sheila did her laundry at one of the very few laundromats in Croatia. She gave us a guided tour of the buildings and left Dottie and Sally to shop while Leigh and Richard tried to find the Vestibule and Peristel Hotels (where we would be staying on our return trip.) With laundry done, computer almost restored, girls shopped out and the guys pleased they were able to find our hotels, even though there were no signs on the building (signs are not allowed in the Palace). We boarded the Migration and sailed toward Hvar on beautiful seas and in perfect weather. Out to sea, after an hour or so, sudden six foot waves rocked the boat. The winds became stronger and we all realized that out on the sea, one moment can be calm and the next pretty stormy. Mike put out the Jenni to help stabilize the boat. We managed OK, although Sally and Leigh did get a bit sick but recovered after the waves subsided later that day. As we pulled toward shore, the engine wouldn't kick over so Mike expertly tried to sail the boat in close enough to anchor it and get into the dinghy to find the Harbor Master. Fortunately, he was able to arrange for a mechanic to come on board and trouble shoot the problem which was something very minor. We all took a deep breath, glad that we were able to avoid any damage to the boat and decided to eat light and stay on board for dinner that night to recover from the trip. Told jokes and stories and all in all had a pleasant evening.
Friday, July 13 Had a perfect day sailing with little wind so we didn't put out the sails. Anchored off shore from the sweetest village of Klement, untouched by tourists. We watched fishermen bringing lobsters to shore and villagers doing their daily chores. Dinghied in to shore and had a wonderful lunch of fried octopus and salad on an olive farm under a thatched lean-to roof. The Dionis restaurant's owner was a young man who pressed his own olives and made his own liquor (Caroba Raki). We all ate and drank and enjoyed the cool breeze blowing up toward the high point of the restaurant. Took pictures and walked around and went swimming in the beautiful green-blue waters. That evening we were "star struck" by the fabulous skies ladened with stars, an experience we will never forget. With no city lights to obscure, the Milky Way shone brightly in the darkness.
Saturday, July 14 After another delicious breakfast, we left Klement for Zlarin, another interesting village, still not crowded with tourists. Dottie bought a beautiful coral necklace which according to Sheila, was the best place for them. Ordered Pecka at Restaurant Ivan, earlier in the day for dinner, since it takes several hours to make this Croatian dish of pork and lamb which is roasted slowly over charcoal. Again salad of tomatoes and cucumbers which became a mainstay of all our dinners, topped off by pear liquor called Krushkovostz. We all slept well that night.
Sunday, July 15 Toured Zlarin, another charming town untouched by commercialism and took pictures of quaint narrow cobblestone streets and stone buildings that are still being lived in (probably several hundred years old. Saw a desolated Serbian Orthodox Church with a bombed out roof only five hundred yards away from a Catholic Croatian Church. Bullet holes were seen on buildings that had not yet been renovated. Met an entrepreneurial young man on a bicycle, Abraham, who insisted on telling us the history of his country, the injustices and crimes committed on his people. In spite of this he preached loving everyone and at the same time, steered us toward a building that has been occupied by a winery since 1722. We purchased wine and olive oil made by the same family since that time.
Monday, July 16 Sailed toward Skradin to visit a Franciscan monastery built on an island in the 1300s which is home to eight Franciscan monks and a number of young acolytes in training for the order. A note of history: When the Ottomans took over the monastery several hundred years ago, the priests fled. The Venetians took it from the Ottomans, and the Ottomans regained it and allowed the Franciscans to remain. We saw the original cistern which collects drinking water. The monks recognized that the water which seeped through the rocks had an abundance of calcium so they used the white of 25,000 eggs to make a composite of concrete using sand and stone to prevent the water from being hard. They used the yolks to paint the building which is still standing.
We boarded the Migration once more and headed to the Krka National Park where we saw fabulous views of the multiple cascading waterfalls. Walked up to the top of the falls and satisfied our hunger at a little restaurant a few feet from the falls. Put our feet in a small potted basin catching water from the falls. It was cold and delicious since we were pretty hot and tired by time we got to the top of the mountain. Had a wonderful meal of tomatoes, olives and cuke salad smothered with olive oil, Dalmatian ham, cheese and fresh homemade bread. Before we left, Sheila and Dottie went for a swim in a designated area of the falls. They stood on travatine stones made smooth by the years of rushing water. Our camera man Richard took a fall as he took pictures, tripping over a tree root. Luckily he wasn't hurt. That evening, Sheila did her usual fabulous supper of eggplant, cold meats and salad. Took dips in the river and played bridge.
Tuesday, July 17 Left Skradin and headed north toward the Kornati Islands on another beautiful day. Before leaving, we breakfasted on a beautiful meal of Greek bacon and egg omelet made from the Peka potatoes. Anchoring down on an idyllic rock island, we snorkeled and swam in clean blue waters. Lunched on Greek yogurt and fruit, salami and cheese. About 4 PM, we anchored at Kornati in the Kornati chain. Leigh and Mike drove the dinghy to the only restaurant on the island and found no one who spoke English. That evening we dinghied to the island and were given a choice of one meal--roasted pig. We ate a tray of pig meat smothered in fat, skin and bones. The wine was a 4, the salad a 5. It was the worst and most expensive meal of the trip and we advised Mike not to put it on his future itinerary. Nevertheless the harbor was charming and quiet.
Wednesday, July 18 Leigh lost his expensive sunglasses in the water at 35 feet deep. Pushed on our way around Kornati and sailed most of the day viewing the many islands making up the Kornati chain. Many of the islands were desolate, void of trees and greenery and we learned that over the years these islands were left barren due to poor conservation. Makes one appreciate the need for good conservation of natural resources. Another beautiful sailing day, and another great breakfast à la Sheila of oatmeal fruit and honey. Lunch of Greek salad and chicken sausage. Yummy! Sure to be gaining weight at this point but it's amazing how the fresh air and sailing gives one an appetite! Anchored at about 4:30 at Kaboni, a snug harbor with a only one building which looked fairly new. We figured it was either a private home or boarding house. Stayed on board and played bridge and Scrabble. Dined on yogurt and cucumber salad, gnocchi and told jokes till 11 PM.
Thursday, July 19 We all awoke with a bang at 6:45 AM. Little did we realize, this quiet snug harbor was a docking place for the ferries that take people to the island. Doors slammed and books fell to the floor as the wakes from the passing ferry shook us from our sleep. Put out sails and spent the day heading for Zadar. Docked at a marina after fueling. Had an episode of dealing with the local "hustlers" who claimed we backed into their motor boat at the fuel station. Mike paid them off, not wanting to deal with the local police. Spent the day sightseeing and lunching at a pizzeria. Ate at a restaurant in a park. Meal was not as good as Sheila's.
Friday, July 20 Drove from Zadar in a rented auto back to Split. Leigh did a good job driving with three back seat drivers directing him. Got to Split in good time and checked into our hotels, the Fords in the charming ornate Peristal Hotel and the Berjians in the Vestibule Hotel, a modern European style decor. Had fabulous showers and a great dinner at the Peristal restaurant. Shopped and went to bed fairly early to arise the next day for our flight to London. The shock of shocks was when Leigh couldn't start the car that morning! Finally an attendant came and said we didn't have our doors closed so that's why it didn't start. We went on our way and decided to stop for gas on the road. Again, the car wouldn't start. No one understood that we needed help and finally Richard got the attention of a man who came over and wiggled the keys and stepped on the brake. Voila! The car started, but we were darned if we would stop again until we got to the airport! Leigh struggled to find where to drop the car off while the rest of us waited on a long line to get to our gate. We finally made it to London!