Crew: Mary Lou Dempsey & Bill Palafox and Bob & Susie Kintner
July 22. Ezrattys departed. Mary Lou Dempsey & Bill Palafox arrived on the 530a ferry from Italy. Breakfast with all before the boat departs for Split to meet the Kintners with a stop at "Rogers Knickers"
July 23. Marylou, Bill and Sheila head out to the green market for provisions. Susie & Bob arrive in Split by bus from Dubrovnik. Simple lunch at their favorite Konoba, with lots of sharing both the appetizers and stories. Then return to the boat to sail to Kastel Sucurac. On the way we stopped for a swim at a beautiful swimming beach. We quickly showered and cought the bus to Trogir to meet the Ezrattys for dinner at the Skrapa Restaurant. Wonderful dinner. The owner showed his appreciation by delivering us grappa. We liked Trogir so much we hope to return at the end of the week. Back in Sucarac there was a festival in the square with great music, food and many townspeople.
July 24. Early Sheila goes to the local bakery that makes the best Borec. Mmmm. Warm and perfectly fresh. Off to Scedro then Korcula. Lunch at the local Scedro outdoor restaurant. Interesting conversation with the owner's son's Bosnian friend who was helping out at the restaurant. Upon arrival to the lake next to Korcula town Mary Lou and Bill successfully secured the stern line to a very solid rock on shore. Delightful swim. Dinner at the local Lanterna Konoba.
July 25. Mary Lou & Bill had an early start on the high-speed ferry to Dubrovnik and tour. Bob, Sue, Sheila and Mike enjoyed a typical day: Reading, lunch in Korcula Town. We passed the open-air market on the way to a restaurant towering over the sea. We ate lightly enjoying wonderful Croatian staples: mussels, fresh picked tomatoes, wonderful hard cheese & olives and beer. Back at boat it was hot. The beautiful clear water called. Later Mary Lou & Bill reported the day was gorgeous but also hot in Dubrovnik. Cocktails in the cockpit. Then into town for a stroll around town to the Sheila's favourite pizza restaruant for dinner. Nice local wine. Wending our way back to the dinghy we discovered a musician entertaining at one of the outdoor watering spots. If one closed their eyes it could have been Johnny Cash. The dinghy ride back to the boat was relatively dry. We enjoyed the rest of the evening in the cockpit observing the surrounding boats, feeling cool evening air, but eventually we began peeling off to bed.
July 26. Sheila prepared a wonderful breakfast of fresh fruit, cereal, borec, etc. Around 1000a Mary Lou & Bill retreived the stern line before we departed to Hvar. We enjoyed lunch underway: Sheila's homemade baked eggplant, pasta salad, cheese, ham, etc. Stopped to swim at the Pakleni Islands. In Hvar Mike telecommuted at the local Internet Cafe.
The rest of us successfully scaled the hill to the Castle. Having read the writeup on the Konoba Luviji (Loui) in our "Sailor's Guide to Dining," we made our reservation. From our balcony table we had a spectacular view of the Cathedral in the foreground and the Castle in the background. The owner is known as one of the better vintners of the island. We enjoyed one of their specialties: Angel Fish in mustard sauce prepared on the open fire oven.
July 27. Last-minute shopping in town then on to the Klement Island to Sheila's favorite family owned Dionis Restaurant. From the dinghy dock we walked about ten minutes along the path into an agricultural area. Dionis is a very simple open air thatched roof establishment with a kitchen with an open fire stove at one end and the heads at the other end. The view over the olive trees and grape vines backdropped by the deep blue sea was spectacular. Multiple courses included grilled squid, aubergine pie, sliced tomatoes with garlic and 3 huge shish kebabs laid on a bed of thinly sliced grilled potatoes and aubergines. Mike & Sheila always buy their homemade olive oil. The dinghy ride back exposed what he thought was a secluded nook, but not by sea, a guy laying on his back, feet spread up against the rocks sunning his manly parts. Unforgettable. These are the islands of flipflops and sneakers. A beautiful 2-3 hour sail to Kastela Sucarac and dinner onboard.
July 28. Mary Lou, Bill, Susie & Bob almost mised the bus to Trogir. Climbed to another castle at the top. Great visual and photos. Toured another gorgeous medieval cathedral overlooking the Clock Tower. Met Sheila & Mike for pizza at Antonio's. Mary Lou & Bill off to Italy. We checked the internet, then strolled around Split. Dinner at Buffet Fife which was a little place, but delicious food.
July 29. Susie & Bob begin the track home via: Duborovnik, Barri, Milan, London and NY.