Crew: Art & Carol Ann Lemkau
August 4. Arrived in Antalya after a very long uncomfortable bus ride (in back seat which was unable to recline resulting in no sleep). Hailed a cab driver who was unable to speak English (felt like I was in New York) and we were unable to speak Turkish. Art took out his trusty guide book to show picture of marina in Antalya. After several "ya, yas" we took off very excited to be in Antalya. However, there are two marinas in Antalya and all attempts at the word "commercial" were unsuccessful. As Gumerson's Law would have it we arrived at the wrong one. With flailing arms and many gestures of "big boats" and more "ya, yas," we about faced and took of the the other marina. Arriving at the gate, the guard never heard of yacht Migration and was not certain he wanted these sleepy-eyed Americans in his marina. He took pity on us and allowed the driver to bring us in. Forty million Lira later we were dumped bag and baggage on the dock. It is 7AM and the office opens at 8. Art is hiking the piers and I am deposited on the luggage--very tired!!! Since we have been unable to reach Mike with the cellphone # we have, the Grinnells are unaware we are arriving a day early. Art returns. No Migration in the marina, ugh. 8:30 the office opens and English is spoken. Hurray!! The adjacent room has a computer for eMail. Yes! Well, maybe not. The keyboard has no _ for michael _ grinnell ( at ) hotmail ( dot ) com. Very hot in this office. The air-conditioning just turned on. We are becoming short on patience. Art goes back into the office to try another route to reach Mike. Low and behold she has a cell# that works. Eureka! "Helloooo, Mike. We are here. Where are you? Only three hours away. yes!" We are in the right country and the correct pier. Open-air restaurant agrees to find us a little breakfast of tomato relish and bread and coffee and tea. The day is very hot. I just want to lay down. We found a little beach with lounge chairs. Think I'll take a little nap. Suddenly Art shouts, "Here they come." We can see the black mast over the jetty. 3 hours on the nose. Lots of hugs and apologies and great relief. Met Sadik and Frederique. Fun friends of the Grinnells who have lived in Port Washington for over 20 years, though we had never met. She is French. He is Turkish. Dinner at the marina restaurant. Sheila and Sadik selected several appetizers and entrees to share. Very good choices (cigarette borek, mixed mezes, Kafe-meatballs). Delicious. Frederique enjoys the Turkish raki and is sleeping in her chair at the table. She looks very funny. We meander back to the boat and Frederique takes a shower to wake up-sans a towel. Very hot for sleeping. Decide to come topside where Art is sleeping to see if I can catch a little breeze. Very tired and happy to be aboard. The end of a long day.
August 5. Sadik and Frederique said a tearful "Goodbye." Hope our paths cross again. Sheila, Mike, Art and I take off for town to do a little provisioning. Very hot and humid. The roads are very congested. Reminds me of home. Toured Hadrian's Gate (160AD) with chariot ruts embedded in the stone road, which was the entrance to Old Town. Many old houses being restored. Beautiful architectural details. Stopped by lovely pension grotto for refreshment-birds in cages hanging from grape vine covered pergola. Ducked into mouth-watering bakery for treats for breakfast. Paused for a light dinner of pizza made of bean, tomato and onion. Very tasty. Dinner was topped off with a little Vijne (tastes like a cherry sorbet) from a local street vendor. Mike stopped at Motorola store for a little instruction for the new cellphone. Off to the Migros supermarket by bus. Wow! What a mall!! Like combining Roosevelt Field and a huge Price Club. Very clean and very efficient. We could take a few pointers. Stocked up for the cruise. We will not starve, if we are ship wrecked. Back to the boat in air-conditioned taxi. Yes! Tonight in the stateroom with a fan. Slept like a log.
August 6. Had a visitor for breakfast, the resident cat. Frederique had been very inviting to this creature. Captain Blighe not happy with the intruder. Seems he has been in Migration's galley making a mess pilfering food. In preparaton for departure, Mike went to complete the checkout. Art went to the market for ice. We unplugged the shore power cable and a little push-off by resident Zodiac tender, we are headed to sea. Feels good to be at sea again. It has been a long time. Too long. Cruising the shoreline-picturesque mountains, which slope right into the sea-very little beach. Observing adventurous individuals in paddle boats cruising in and out of mountainous caves along the shore; parasailors enjoying the scenery from up above. What an idyllic day.
Stopped for lunch in Cinevez-lovely little cove with soft gentle breezes and gorgeous blue-green water. I had a delightful swim. Art did a little money laundering (money clip in pocket of trunks). Sheila produced a wonderful gourmet lunch, fit for a king, of horta, Turkish bologna, cheese, lettuce & tomato sandwich.
It's Cavus for late afternoon and evening. Small mishap. Swimming line caught around prop. Art overboard to save the day with snorkel. My hero! A delightful swim in heavenly warm water-one could float forever (very salty). After exercise and Mt Gay punch, just enjoying the soft breezes and swinging to the tune of the sea. Sun is setting behind a cloud and sky is beautiful pink. Mike is in his "office" trying to pay for this luxury. Sheila and I are having a few hotly contested games of backgammon (havn't played this game in eons). People are swimming from the beach. Thermometer says 90, however feels more like 80. Very delightful. Our resident Chef Sheila created a delicious meal of chicken in walnut sauce.
August 7. Beautiful morning, beautiful cove. Mike on the Internet finding toys for Art, since he is so deprived. Sea is like green glass. Fresh juicy peaches for breakfast. Wish we could get these at home. Muslim lady swimming in harem pants. Scarves floating all around her. It is a wonder she doesn't drown. We lift anchor with help of our trusty windless and we are off. The monotony of the beautiful sea was interrupted by Migration's first catch from the sea by fishing rod by our very own fisherman extraordinaire-Art (a plastic bag). Floating plastic is everywhere in the Med. A dead sea turtle floating upside down drifts by our hull. A lazy morning of reading and relaxing and enjoying the beauty of the sea. Cruised Kekova Sound where submerged ancient city lies below the surface and foundatons of ancient houses an be seen from the boat. Fascinating! This was a Greek settlement of Tersane (meaning ship yard). Across the bay we visit Teimuissaja, a Lycian city with numerous sarcophagi and rock tombs visible from the boat. Charming village in Kekova Sound (Kalekoiy) with a medieval castle overlooking the village. Villagers are fishermen going for both fish and lobster. Art looking speculatively at fisherman's catch. Settled snug in Kekovas Lagoon. Nice swim in water that turns warm to ice cold as the springs of fresh water bubble up from the floor below. A couple of hotly contested games of gin are being played by Sheila and Carol Ann. Art swings hammock from rigging and reclines with rum and tonic in hand to observe the beautiful sunset. Art relinquishes his hammock to Capt Mike to set up his "office" for a little late afternnoon buying and selling. A couple more Mt Gays (glad this is only a two week cruise, I could become lush very easily). Another delicious dinner of meatballs, fava beans and salad by Chef Sheila. While the kitchen crew is cleaning up, the boys slip away to a restaurant on the beach for a little refreshment. This will never do. The kitchen crew doesn't want to miss any action; so, First Mate Sheila hails them to return for us, which they promptly do and we all enjoy a fun evening of loud American music and some liquid refreshment. A little stargazing and relaxing before call it a day. What a delight!
August 8. Roosters are crowing, people are stirring. A walrus dove off the stern. The day has begun. Wonder what adventure we will find today. 930 Anchors away. A little detour to Karaloz-another beautiful lagoon. A perfect pirate hideout. I expect to find the skull and crossbones flag lurking around the next bend. Oops! Small SNAFU in bay outside Kas" target="_blank">harbor of Kas. We ran out of gas-jenny up, change of captains topside, occasional raised voices and then all fixed. We arrive in Kas safe and sound. Sheila and I waste no time to trek off for the farmers' market. Great variety of foods. We schlep back with our prizes of peaches, cheese, tomatoes, whole watermelon and Crenshaw melons. Very HHH. Dinner out at cute little restaurant where you select your food from display case. Stopped to admire a few more carpets on way back to boat.
August 9. Another beautiful day. Chef Sheila served a yummy bread pudding. Art and I take off for a day of touring surrounding area. First stop, Saklikent Gorge (longest in Turkey). Spectacular gorge of rock about several hundred-foot walls surrounding a river with very rocky bottom. Rent rubber shoes, which have only a thin rubber sole to walk in rushing water-not a good idea. Rocks are sharp and jagged. Trek was fascinating. However some poor young man slipped and fell and broke his arm. Friends had to assist him over boulders to get him out. Not a good thing.
Visited Xhantos (Santos)-one of the 3 most important Lycian period cities (1200-400BC). Stood on the cliff where the Romans threw the women and children into the river far below. They were very nasty. After a busy day, we went to dinner of fish and shrimp at Suleyman's, Kas Restaurant. Finished of the evening with a nightcap at Bezet's restaurant. Some excitment is occurring. A man in a yacht, three boats down, was arrested for murder. We had seen them a couple nights ago in one of our coves. It seems she was found floating in the sea right where we were cruising. He says she fell overboard and he was unaware she was missing-likely story.
August 10. Sunday. Wake up to Muslim call to prayer (no church bells). Relaxing morning-little shopping-pashminas and charms for Melanie and Adena.
Left harbor aprox 1130 AM. The town of Kas was so quaint and very friendly people who welcomed Americans with open arms and English spoken freely. Sailed in Med Sea-lovely breeze. Put into the charming cove of Karaloz. After some jockeying and maneuvering, Art and I were introduced to the art of lassoing a rock for the stern of the boat to keep her steady. Refreshing swim in crystal clear 84 degree water. Air-perfect no humidity. This cove is picturesque with rock-encrusted hills and crystal-clear water. You can see canyons and rock formations 40 feet below the surface as you swim.
August 11. Cinevez is our destination. 915 departure after unchaining the rock-graceful as a gazelle I entered the dinghy and exited to and from the rock. The mountainous land lies in a haze to port and the azure sea surrounds us.
Mike in his office, Sheila tanning the back of her legs, I'm finishing "A Year in Provence." Art is at the helm searching for pirates. Anther beautiful day and no rain in sight. Stopped for a swim at Suluada-island of green and rusty colored rock. Lovely water warm and a beautiful green color. The shoreline appears to erupt straight from the sea. Ss there is no beach on 90% of the shore-mountain goat heaven!
Oops!! Spoke too soon regarding "no rain." Black clouds are upon us. I was reclining and rocking to the rythmn of the sea when I was rudely jolted to a barking of my captain "CA go down and secure the hatches and port holes (that is something I know how to do, you see.) A brief little wind and rainstorm passed over us as we tucked into a small harbor of refuge and slipped around the corner to Cinevez. The sea is churning and white caps are surfacing and rain is pelting the Bimini and captain dons foul weather gear. No sooner did all that happen, it disappeared. Sun is back out. The humidity has been blown away and it is a lovely afternoon. More hotly contested games of gin by Sheila and CA while the goats are meandering down the mountainside. One is baaing up the steep cliff. I hope he is not lost or cannot get down. From where we sit, the trek down looks extremely treacherous. Our gastronomic fancy for this evening is risotto and walnut and pomegranate chicken with sous chef CA assisting in the galley (I use the term loosely since all I did was a little chopping and cleaning up-I can do that). Needless to say, we inhaled our delight as usually since we worked so hard all day. Our captain was ravenous and managed to consume a few French chocolates for dessert.
August 12. Goats are trekking up the mountainside and jumping from crag to crag. I think they have done this before.
Lazy "putsy" morning. Art is sewing his new rolling luggage and about to plunge into the sparkling green water and Captain Mike is swatting flies and sweeping them up with his palm sized brush and dustpan. This a very serious task aboard Migration.
At 1215 we haul anchor and leave the mysterious cliffs and hidden valleys beyond behind and the guletts that have arrived for their day's outing of swimming and fun. We arrived at Sican cove after careful maneuvering haul the dlnghy and motor topside for a little scrub-a-dub-dub, after which a dip in the briny deep was in order to cool off. Captain was in his "office" earning his living. Another few hands of gin and backgammon and then time to prepare a gourmet delight of Greek omelet with delicious watermelon for a chaser and of course a couple bottles of delicious wine to wash it down. It is a little warm this evening (90) and a mist is creeping up in the valley to cover the mountains. However the moon which rose orange in the sky is sparkling brightly on the sea as Capt. Mike and Art stretch out and relax after another hard day at sea. The conclusion of another beautiful day in paradise.
August 13. Wake up to a 30 knot breeze and choppy sea. We are swinging on the hook like a pendulum. A little breakfast of juice, watermelon and juicy peaches and cereal for the Capt. Sheila doing a little repairing of the dodger-oops! Needle slipped and ended up in her palm. Not too serious, but painful I'm certain. This does not deter her. A band aid and back to work. Short cruise back to Antalya arriving at 330. Tied up and washed down the boat and the proverbial afternoon entertainment of gin and backgammon. Rented a car for evening and went to great restaurant, Degermenduzer, in the outback. Thought we were goners for sure as we traveled on dirt roads back in the hills. Suddenly out of nowhere sprung this quaint restaurant where the locals go for yummy food. Fresh water running in streams under you feet and shooting from pipes all around. A very unique experience. Customer could select a fish from a fish tank and watch it being cooked on a hibachi next to table-a Turkish gourmet delight. Meandered back along the roads less traveled to marina restaurant for a nightcap-heavenly breeze blowing through the restaurant and moon shining on the sea along side. Mars twinkling in the sky. The resident cat lay lurking on the warm cement of the pier looking of an occasional fish to be thrown its way. Capt. frowning (thinks the cat is a pest). The end of another fun day.
August 14. Wake-up and packing begins. A little house cleaning and then breakfast of juicy peaches and fruit juice and Capt. Mike has his fiber cereal. 1100 departure for Perge-1400 BC city; well-preserved stadium with vaulted chambers under the stadium bleachers, which held shops for people to sell their wares. Inscriptions in marble record proprietor's names and businesses. Fascinating! There are remnants of carved stones, spiral pillars, mosaic floors and long grooves in paving from chariot wheels. Water canal ran down center of the main street from the fountain at the end. St Paul preached at the basilica near the end of the street. Lunch at a favorite riverside restaurant of the Grinnells with rescue by Mike and Art of beer can which blew into the river along side the table. Rescue was performed in the restaurants paddle wheel boat. A delicious meal of cigarette breks, trout, salad, Turkish coffee and of course Effes beer. Picture the four of us sitting Ottoman style. Off to Aspendos-theater built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (ruled 161-180AD). Theater is the best preserved in Turkey-holds 20,000 people. Beautiful arches surround top a cool breeze flows through. Theater still in use for concerts, ballets, operas. A splendid Roman aqueduct traverses the valley adjacent to the theater utilizing pressure of water flowing from the mountains to supply summit of the acropolis. The water tower dates from 2nd century AD and stairway is still intact. Left Aspendos and drove to airport and said sad good-bys to Mike and Sheila. Flight from Antalya to Istambul on time and checked into Tashan Hotel-the hardest bed I ever slept on!!!! No top sheet. Only a comforter and barely air-conditioned.
August 15. Breakfast of juice, melon and pastries. Taxi 945 arrived airport 1000 only to discover flight delayed until 30pm. Does American airlines ever leave on time? Halfway over the Atlantic stewardess announces there is a blackout on the East Coast and we will be landing in Boston. After much scrambling and waiting at airport, they finally put us on a bus for hotel. We are on our own to figure how to get home. Up all night on phone trying to get a flight. In airport by 600am only to stand in two hour line to get transfered to Delta to stand in another 2 hour line. Long day!
Observations: Turkey-a very dry dusty country with fascinating topography and history. Very friendly people and fast driving. The coastline mountains jettison right from the sea; the water is beautiful color of turquoise to deep blue depending on depth of water and position of the sun.