Ship's Log

GOCEK TO MARMARIS
September 9 to 17, 2003

Crew: Dana Snipper & Judi Saren, Ron & Deb Lefton

September 10. We were asked to call Mike from the bus, however none of us had a Turkey friendly phone. So when the driver said "Marina?" we all agreed, but it turned out to be the wrong place. The marina let us use their phone and Mike showed up in 10 minutes. We had a lovely dinner at the Caria Restaurant and went back to Migration to unpack and settle in.

September 11. Judi and Dana's 27th wedding anniversary brought clouds and strong wind up to 40 knots. We decided to spend the day in Marmaris. Debbie and Judi were especially thrilled considering that both started the day a little green around the gills. We moored in the Marmaris Yacht Marina and took the bus to town for lunch at one of Mike and Sheila's favorite restaurants across from Tansas. Great Lavash. Deserts at Sofra. Debbie bought ceramic plates and Judi and Dana took a Turkish Bath. We had a great dinner at Zeytin. Delicious homemade pasta and an outside table overlooking the beach. Our gracious hostess, Sheila, provided Judi and Debbie with 24 hour Bonine.

September 12. Deb slept late (Bonine). Ron and Judy went for a great shampoo and swim at the marina pool/shower complex. We departed at 1100a. Mike grumbled about the late start. Deb slept. The wind picked up to 20. We saw one submarine and two Turkish destroyers (w/helipads) and choppers following in the air. The sun was out, made good time, Mike was happy again. Deb slept. We woke her when we got to the cove in Yassica Adasi in the Fethiye Lagoon. Everyone swam. Sheila shampooed us. What a nurturer! Dinner at the Kebob Hospital in Gocek. We all enjoyed the Beytisarma (spicy eat with yogurt on pita). A little shopping (pashminas). A little ice cream. Back on Migration Mike turned on the ship's stereo and the girls danced on the "dance deck." Great day.

September 13. Sheila prepared a lovely omelet w/onions, feta, tomatoes, and green peppers. At 1030a we motored to Fethiye. Perfect weather: 80 degrees and light breeze. Walked through the open-air market scoping out the fresh fish, nuts, candy (Turkish Delight) and spices. Walked up the hill to the Tomb of Amyntas. Ron, Dana and Deb walked all the way up while Judi and Sheila sat to enjoy fresh squeezed OJ. MUM. Walked back down, bought hazelnuts, dried apricots, Sumak, pistachios and candy. We stopped for lunch at Megri Lokantashi. Huge kabobs, chicken in eggplant, and spinach were a big hit. Judi and Sheila continued a hot gin rummy game (J-144, S-208). Revelation: the deck was 4 cards short. Great excitement with the sea turtle sighting. We arrive at Gemelar Adasi. We let one of the local citizens help us with our lines to shore, which obligates us to eat either dinner or breakfast at their establishment. Heavy seas brought some rocking and rolling. A nice swim relaxed everyone. Sheila prepared a dinner of chicken and rice, ending with baklava. Ron as usual made a lovely toast. We watched Mike's photos of previous trips on the computer and listened to Judi's music mix. Two large guletts were partying on either side of us. It was like a music duel--"YMCA" on one side and disco on the other.

September 14. We took a swim and then went for the aforementioned breakfast at Kalamore. It was simply omelets, tomatoes, salami, cheese, olives, honey and bread. We were quite surprised by the bill: 85,000,000 Turkish lira. We had spent less than that for complete dinners a few times. Deb, Dana, Judi and Ron went ashore from Migraton to investigate the Gemelar Adasi ruins. Deb and Dana were adventuresome and descended the hill directly through the brambles, while Judi and Ron returned the long way by way of the beaten-down trail. We saw a series of three churches dating back 1500 years to the Byzantine era. The pictures and views were spectacular. We spotted little colorful specks in the nearby mountains, They turned out to be hangliders sailing the rising air currents. Another quick swim, then anchor up and sail to Ekincik. Nobody was seasick. We had strong Internet signal, so everyone caught up on emails. Dinner was the most elegant, upscale restaurant of the trip: My Marina Yacht Club. Cloth napkins, rolling carts with huge selections: fresh grouper and pepper steak were a hit. Brownies w/ice cream and hazelnut cakes w/honey finished off the orgy. The large well appointed terrace was a lovely setting for Ron's toast: "From ruins to the Milky Way an altogether wonderful day."

Calm seas and light breezes Captain Nemo's Farm fest September 15. Calm seas and light breezes aided the trip to Serce. Sheila cleaned Judi's clock in gin. Lunch on deck. While Mike napped, we took the dinghy in search of a good swimming beach. Too many sea urchins, so we jumped off the dinghy and swam back to Migration. We yakked, drank and solved the world's problems. Locals came to the side of the boat to show us their wares. We bought honey and ceramics. Since we were provided fixed moorings, we went to Captain Nemo's Farm fest for dinner. Hassan was very garrulous and funny. Sheila explored the kitchen and was euphoric to discover Mahi Mahi. It turned out to be as sweet and tasty as advertised. We have photos of Sheila diving into that whole fish to excavate every last morsel. Mike could not convince Dana and Ron that the red wine house was better than the pink, which looked like Kool Aid, so they picked out a bottle with the best looking label. It was rated 3 out of 10.

September 16. 805a we shove off to Marmaris. More cards, north winds and an easy ride to Netsel Marina. Ron and Dana helped Mike remove the sails in preparation for decommissioning. We had Iskanders and Adana Kebobs at Sofra for lunch. Ron went exploring at the old fort. Dana finally had his phone fixed. Judi and Sheila went shopping. More ceramics, a purse and some evil eyes. Dinner at Caria again. Then packing. After dinner in the marina rest room Deb shows Sheila her newly purchased earrings. Sheila promptly drops one down the sink. But to Sheila's credit, she grabs the appropriate tools (screwdriver and a snake-like grabber) and salvages the earring. It was exciting.

September 16-23 Mike and Sheila decommissioned Migration. Cocktails at the Sultan's Inn with Blue Mosque

September 23 Mike and Sheila toured Istambul. Staying at the Sultan's Inn. In the evening we had cocktails on the top of the Sultan's Inn in their perch. Blue Mosque in the background.

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