Crew: Mario D'Angelo, Andrew Grinnell, Scott Hanau, Tom Paull, Colin Schneider
August 4 to 6.
In Nidri, Les Wood and Danny Keane began the work of replacing the teak dance deck with fiberglass with a non-skid surface. We decided to do this because it was the only large surface of teak on the deck. The teak was hot enough to make the master cabin the hottest part of the boat down below. Also it was a nuisance to keep clean. Thirdly it was about to need caulking.
In nearby Vlikho Bay we spotted another Tayana 55. Mike went over and introduced himself and met Alan and Sally Anderson. Obviously we had a great deal in common. They had been living on the boat, but are building a home in the nearby mountains. Alan told us on the way to the construction site is a winery. The owner had been to California to develop his expertise. Both the red and white are very good and reasonably priced. At cocktails on Alan's boat Mike arranged with Alan to buy a bladder of each to be delivered at cocktails on Migration the next evening. It would be nice to find wine like this everywhere we have been.
August 6. That afternoon Mario arrived. He had worked his way from Naples, Italy mostly by ferry boats. It was a very long day. He was really happy to join in with a cold beer.
August 7. Mario, Sheila and Mike sailed to Paxos.
August 8. We sailed to Corfu.
August 9. After a crazy fun-filled weekend at the Pink Palace the remaining crew arrived at Migration around 1300. After a joyous greeting the boys negotiated for their quarters and unpacked. It was an easy dinghy ride toward the Old Fortress on the hill behind Migration. We toured with the sun setting down on Corfu then treated to the authentic Taverna experience. The medieval streets seemed so crowded with the gang of 7 making their way through this beautiful city.
August 10. After topping off the diesel tanks, we departed Corfu at 1230 heading north into the Adriatic Sea. Since this was an overnight passage we hanked on the genoa stay sail and the storm tri sail. Eventually the breeze filled in, on the nose of course. We sailed until the next evening. The idea is to work the middle of the sea, keeping both Albania and Italy well off each side. Even though the 135% genoa had been restitched, the bottom seam gave out. We replaced it with the 100%. It was just as well. We were able to sail at a higher point of sail with the reefed main in breezes in the high teens.
August 11. Midday we spotted porpoise all around us. They woke out of a quiet state. Great excitement. Late that evening the wind pooped out, so we powered the rum line to Cavtat, Croatia. The three watch teams were: Mario and Tom, Colin and Andrew, and Mike and Scott. Three-hour watch sequence. Chiquita, the autopilot, steered. With the digital nav software in the laptop we always knew our position, distance to the way point, estimated arrival time, speed, etc. The radar was very important due to extensive ship traffic. Many of them didn't alter course until at the one mile point. At two miles we turned on the mast head tri-color light and off the deck running lights figuring a change may wake them up. At one mile we were ready to turn on the mast head strobe light. Most often just before one mile they changed course. Colin speculated the crew were probably given orders not to change course until the one mile circle. These ferries were enormous. They looked like floating cities lit up like Christmas trees. Occasionally we couldn't find their port or starboard lights. Colin reported he had three ships on the scope on collision course at one time during his watch. We were going to arrive before sun up, so we throttled back to 1000 rpms.
August 12. We crept into Cavtat at 6:00am with a failed freshwater pressure pump. This beautifully preserved little town is reputed to be easy for Customs, Immigration and Port Police. While Mike was struggling with replacing the pump, the boys went on a dinghy adventure. They found a great cliff dive spot and generally played. The officials saw Sheila and the boys all around town, but no Captain. Sheila gave Mike the heads up that the officials were upset. After an hour and 1950 kuna ($336 USD) Mike was free to pick up two GSM SIM cards at the local post oOffice. After sampling the local beer we powered a short way to Dubrovnik. We anchored in front of the medieval walled city along with several larger sailing yachts. The boys took the dinghy again to adventure in town. During cocktail hour we took a nice shot of the sun setting with the Dubrovnik in the foreground. After a banquet in town, the boys dropped Sheila and Mike off and returned to town to party all night.
August 13. The boys returned at 0800 hours. We powered and sailed to a pristine little anchorage on the West end of Mljet. Pristine also means weed-bottom. Half the boats were swinging on their anchors in 5 to 10 knots wind. Having had difficulty with weed before, we tied a stern line to a huge narble rock on shore, set the CQR out front and the fisherman upwind.
August 14. We woke up to the sound of thunder in the distance. The radar showed it coming our way. Mario pronounced it was a Sirocco, which means both wind and rain. We rarely have seen rain in Greece and Turkey. I told Mario we had better get under way in case the anchors give. He informed me he had a fear of lightning. His boat was hit once and knocked out all the electronics. As a precaution we disconnected various antennae from electronics. The rain began to pour. The dance deck filled up like a bath tub. We put salty items in the accumulated fresh water. Looking at the radar the storm was more than half past us. Suddenly Mario yelled through the blast of wind, "The anchor is not holding." The anemometer showed 20 knots from abeam. I started the engine and yelled to Mario to cast off the stern line. But it hung up. He yelled back, "Throw me a knife!" After cutting it he yelled, "You are free to go!" We just missed wiping out the boat to leeward by two feet. Mario retrieved the stern line with the dinghy. Colin raised the anchors. We departed to sail/power/sail northwest to Hvar (pronounced hwar). Mostly on the nose again. We arrived at sunset cold and wet. Andrew created a wonderful zucchini soup for dinner. The boys went to town to celebrate the end of their hard work and safe arrival.
August 15. 0630 the tired boys returned. Hvar town is a party town at night, but a beach town during the day. This semi-circular harbor is surrounded with hills filled with red roofed stone houses. An old castle on top. The harbor was packed mostly with Italian charter boats. The water traffic back and forth was made up mostly of dinghies, sailboats and water taxis, with the occasional ferry boat. It reminded me of the chaos of the traffic in downtown Naples. The promenade surrounding the harbor is a constant stream of tourists strolling. Mario, who is a great cook, prepared his favorite Puntanesco on board for our dinner.
August 16. Lazy day at Hvar. The boys continued to stay out of cycle with us. Andrew, also a good cook, prepared a very nice pasta dish for dinner. The boys vowed to pack for their 0800 ferry to Split the next day, but the call of town won out.
August 17. After returning at 0600 the panic packing began. But somehow they made it, but we found bits and pieces for weeks.