July 29, Lovely dinner at Dimitry's Taverna. But 54 steps up the cliff from the Marina!
July 30, After a quick refreshing swim, we rented a car with Hy, King of the Road, driving. Thira--jewelry shopping. Never made it to Oea! Dinner on the cliff overlooking ships and caldera. Toured Akrotiri Museum with all of its prehistoric artifacts. Two crazies (Gene & Karen) hoofed up 580 steps OFF the donkey trail (890 feet) from the harbor to the top rather than ON the donkey like everybody else.
July 31, Thira. More jewelry shopping. After lunch we returned to the boat to pick up Al and Nina Bissex, whose boat was next to ours, to provision both boats. Over a week's time the Bissexes and the Grinnells befriended each other, sharing experiences, helping each other maintain their boats, and exchanging hosting cocktail hour. Today we enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails on Migration. Al loved the Makers Mark. We all made our way up to Dimitry's for the last supper. Dimitry's is also known as Mike's Mediterranean office.
August 1, 7.5 hours to Livadia on the beach side of Astipalea. Then to Peter and Nicole's Taverna. He had lived in New York City for 25 years.
August 2, It was too windy to sail, so we toured the town and castle. Fantastic view from the top. That night at Peter's Taverna, where we enjoyed goat cooked on a spit and drank lots of Raki. Hy-Mon was hung over again!!
August 3, We sailed to Nissoros and on to the second restaurant down to enjoy the best pig on a spit, and then more, and then more to be followed by homemade baklava.
August 4, Gene, Karen, Hy and Verna rented motorbikes to go see the live volcano. The crater was emitting steam the sulfurous smell of rotten eggs. Gene and Karen went into the crater. Thank God it didn't erupt. Verna is not a biker. She hitched a ride down to the boat with a nice couple driving a car. When Gene returned to the boat he was shocked. His camera was missing. After a long anxious retrieval trip he returned with his prized camera.
At Astradinis' Restaurant we enjoyed cuttlefish, chickpea fritters, Greek salad with homemade pickled caper leaves and delicious potatoes fried in olive oil (French fries). Dessert was homemade cherry tomatoes cured with local honey.
August 5, The sail in 14 to 20 knots breeze to Panormitis, Simi was spectacular. The harbor is noted for the Monastery with the patron saint Michael of seafarers. After anchoring we realized there were "yellow jackets" pestering us. Gene was stung in the left rear cheek. Then another crew member announced that she might have a yeast infection and really felt a long way from her doctor. Do not fear. Chief Medical Officer Sheila came up with a much more than adequate 4 cartons of the correct medication. Earlier while socializing with the boat next to us, we learned the skipper was a Medical Officer with the U.S. Foreign Service, based in Cairo. He confirmed Sheila had chosen the right meds. Later during cocktail hour the multitalented skipper next to us played lovely flamenco music on his acoustic guitar. We swatted wasps while we swayed to the music. Anyone watching us might wonder what the hell was going on aboard the Migration. Gene looked like he was playing tennis with a fly swatter. Hy was hopping around like a "cat on a hot tin roof." Everyone else was on his or her toes.
August 6, We sailed/powered to Rhodes, where we did a spin through Rhodes Town Harbor, then to the beautiful little harbor of Lindos. Since it was in the lee, it was hot--95 degrees at 9:00am. The water was an inviting 87 degrees. We spent a lot of time in the water, buying cold bottled water and seeking out ice. Unfortunately there was no dock suitable for the boat to take on water. So every day for the next week Mike filled two five gallon collapsible camping-type water jugs ashore and decanted them into the boat's water tanks.
August 10, we got together with our boat neighbors Eric and Liz Burford. He built his steel boat and they are now permanently cruising the Med. We took five pages of notes as they described many of the places they had been. We really appreciate all the sharing of local knowledge fellow yachties so freely provide.
